How to grow Parsnip?

- Latin Family: Apiaceae
- Latin Genus: Pastinaca
- Ease of Growing: Easy
- Growing Type: Annual
The parsnip is a useful crop for several reasons. It tastes good, is nutritious, is easy to store (you simply leave it in the ground) and it's quite easy to grow (easier than the carrot). The main drawback is that it is slow growing and so is in the ground for quite a long time.
The parsnip is a cool-weather biennial grown as an annual.
Parsnip History
This European native has been cultivated since the time of the Romans. It hasn't changed a great deal from the wild form, except that the root is bigger and the woody core has disappeared. The parsnip was a staple root vegetable in Europe for centuries but was eventually displaced by the potato. It is still much more popular in Europe than it is in North America and is a common sight in vegetable gardens there. Parsnip has declined in importance in North America in recent years and is now relatively unusual.
Soil Preference
- PH (min/max): 6.0 - 7.0
- PH Ideal (min/max): 6.4 - 6.6
The ideal soil for parsnips is a fairly [neutral], loose, well-drained, moderately rich loam. It should be deep because the roots may go down 2 feet and also be fairly free of stones.
How to care for Parsnip?
Parsnip is a hardy and robust plant and once established it is perfectly capable of looking after itself.
Water
Parsnips need constant moisture (especially when the roots are sizing up), so don't let the soil get too dry.
Fertilizer
Parsnips are a good crop to plant after potatoes. They like the deeply dug soil and the previous heavy fertilization. If the soil isn't very fertile, give your plants a regular feed of [compost tea] or liquid seaweed every month.
Seeds
Seed Viability: 1 - 2 years
Germination Percentage: 60.0
It's easier to save parsnip seed than most other biennials, because they are so hardy there is no problem getting them through the winter. You don't have to store the roots inside or even protect them outside (though you might want to move them to a more convenient place). Parsnips flower in the spring of their second year. They are cross-pollinated by insects, so you should grow only one variety at a time (or you could isolate them). They will also cross with Wild Parsnip, which is the wild form of this plant (this is common in some areas). Save seed from at least a half dozen plants to maintain some genetic diversity. Gather the ripe seeds from the [umbels] in summer (don't wait so long that they fall off) and dry thoroughly. They will need at least a month of after-ripening before they will germinate.
Light
Part shade
Parsnips do better than most common crops in light shade, though they are more productive in full sun. They are in the ground for a long time, so should be located where they won’t interfere with late garden operations such as fall bed preparation.
Conditions:Cool, Warm
Season:Long Season
Sun: min. 6 hours daily
Parsnips do better than most common crops in light shade, though they are more productive in full sun. They are in the ground for a long time, so should be located where they won’t interfere with late garden operations such as fall bed preparation.
Conditions:Cool, Warm
Season:Long Season
Storage
Parsnips can be stored in the refrigerator for weeks.
Storage Req: Refrigerator
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: 1-28 days
Large quantities of Parsnips can be stored over the winter in a clamp. This works best in light, well drained soil and should be in a sheltered position.
Start by digging out the soil in the area of the clamp to a depth of 10" and then lay down a 3" to 6" layer of straw or dry leaves (you might first lay down a layer of Gopher wire to foil rodents). A piece of perforated pipe is arranged in the center and the roots are placed around it to form a cone or prism shaped pile (a vent can also be constructed from straw). The pile is then covered with a 6" layer of straw (more in very cold climates) or leaves. Finally the straw is covered with a 6" layer of soil, which is packed down with a spade. Some of this soil comes from the original excavation; the rest is obtained by digging a drainage trench around the clamp. Keep the vent open on top of the clamp unless it gets very cold, in which case it should be closed up with straw.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: °F
Storage Length: days
Parsnips are one of the best crops for winter use. They are so hardy they can be stored in the ground all winter and dug as required. A thick mulch of straw can be used to prevent the ground from freezing so they are easier to dig (it may also protect the roots). If mice are a problem you may have to lay down wire mesh before you apply the mulch.
An ideal temperature would be 35-40F to keep the plants from growing.
Storage Req: Ground
Storage Temp: 35-40°F
Storage Length: days
For longer storage, store them in a root cellar in damp sand or peat moss. It is possible to store parsnips for up to 6 months in a root cellar, at 32° to 40° F and 90% humidity. Put the roots in a garbage can or a wooden box. Make alternate layers of damp sand (or sawdust or peat moss) and parsnips. Make sure the roots don’t touch each other or they may rot.
Storage Req: Cold, Moist
Storage Temp: 32-40°F
Storage Length: 180 days
Problems
Canker
Canker is common in poorly drained, [acid] soil. Some varieties are resistant.
It appears as a reddish-brown, dark brown or black patches on the shoulders of the root.
Parsnip Types
- Parsnip
Parsnips, like carrots, are grown for their long, slender root. Parsnips are ivory in color and have beautiful celery-like leafy tops.
Pests
- Carrot Rust Fly
- Wireworm
- Birds
- Carrot Weevil
- Aphids
- Carrot Beetle
- Japanese Beetle
- Leafminers
- Nematodes
- Slugs and snails
- Deer
Diseases
- Bacterial Blight
- Scab
- Cercospora Leaf Spot
- Damping Off